Far from being a simple detail, the eyebrow asserts a character . It is also the area of the face that we make up the most at the theater.
And now, in the street too: "The eyebrows represent the most dynamic market of the eye, with a growth of more than 30% this year" , reveals Maxime Finaz de Villaine, Marketing Director at L'Oréal Paris France.
Especially thanks to the young girls (15/24 years) very expert and the fifties who consume more and more beauty.
If sometimes nature is well done (Kate Moss has no eyebrows and it suits him very well, Cara Delevingne has an intense brush that suits him just as much), we may need to work, give them volume, the densify or stylize them.
Eyebrows: a line in the hair
It changes the perception of the face. It can be entrusted to professional hands.
At the Eyebrow Workshop, the technicians take morphology classes for three weeks before using the forceps . They can then decline to measure, according to the facial features (face and profile), an infinity of possibilities from three standard shapes (straight, aerial, diving) and different thicknesses.
"Women often want the ups and marked eyebrows. That suits with wide eyes or a large forehead. But not if the hairline is low ... to us to guide them diplomatically," said Joss, founder of The Eyebrow workshop.
An indispensable tip for often subtle changes: creating a small circumflex accent on flat eyebrows gives a seductive side; moving the bow on the last third enlarges the look; rounding a line softens hard lines ...
In Benefit brow bars, you can now choose from one of the four favorites in the world: arched (eyebrow most instagramed), straight (a must in Korea), ultra-supplied and spikes (Californians love ), or classic : natural, clean, neat (universal).
Brushing the eyebrows, a step not to be missed
Even a little more often if you have just had your line restructured, until all the regrowths are synchronized.
Regarding the choice of weapons, Joss swears by the forceps , more artisanal and less traumatic for the eyelid than wax, torn sometimes brutally.
Ditto for Angélik Iffennecker (The Eyebrow by Angélik): "The forceps allows greater precision, especially to depilate the top of the head of the eyebrow."
Elsa Durrens, make-up artist Chanel, likes wire hair removal, which allows drawing very sharp lines, very sharp, stretched to the maximum. Ideal when you want graphic eyebrows .
Still, a small strip of wax can occasionally do the trick for a refresh, and that very good technicians are also in conventional beauty salons.
Expert hands to avoid disaster
The experts recommend avoiding to restructure oneself. If only for lack of hindsight. "A must when you pluck! The eyebrow is only part of the face. It must be seen in its entirety," warns Angélik.
Prefer slight personal touch-ups to the clip between two appointments, preferably to remove hair that pushes away from the line. At the slightest hesitation, it is better to abstain. And pay attention to the obsession perfect eyebrows: "They should certainly be harmonious, but not in the detail," insists Joss.
Yes, the eyebrow hydrates
Imperative, under pain, if not, to lose them. The minimum is to remove them every evening. "Over the pores are clogged under the makeup, the more eyebrow may fall. He must be able to breathe at night," warns Elsa Durrens.
To nourish the hair, she gives her remedy of grandmother: drop a drop of castor oil on the bottle of a clean mascara and brush the eyebrows once or twice a week before going to bed.
Makeup his eyebrows is not cheating
For a natural result , choose a pencil with a fine point, the driest possible and very well cut: "Ideal to create the illusion of false hair and makeup sparse eyebrows , " advises Jennifer Wahbe, Benefit training director.
The powdered blushes allow themselves to color the eyebrows with a little more subtlety: "The record is less graphic than a pencil, and gesture is very easy for a beginner," says Elsa Durrens.
Finally, with a tinted gel-cream, we will obtain a more sophisticated finish, a more defined line.
Be that as it may, the principle remains the same: draw small vertical lines (with the pencil lead or beveled brush) in the direction of the hair, starting from the inside and going towards the tip.
The most expert can even recreate a small peak to accentuate the arc.
The bottle brush, the essential accessory for neat eyebrows
It's the reflex that changes everything.
In the direction of the top, they immediately open the eyes. To do with a small specific brush or fixer mascara (eyebrow lacquer) to discipline and fix movement.
Transparent or tinted, if we need to color or densify "In this case, you can even spend the mascara against the grain to provide maximum volume before brushing up," advises Jennifer Wahbe.
The solution to affirm them: the dyeing
Even if we turn platinum, we do not fade. It is strong on parades (the eyebrows " bleached " on the monochrome face of the last Givenchy show) but not in real life. If we go from blonde to red or brown, we can darken them a little.
Ditto if we find them a little bland or if we need to hide some white hairs that would tend to invite a little too early ... Average holding color: between two and four weeks.
New techniques to sublimate one's eyebrow
With the wave of specialized workshops, the techniques are perfecting. Two bluffing operations.
Long-lasting volume: a semi-permanent staining technique (up to three weeks) that redraws and enhances sparse or refined eyebrows. The good alternative between the ephemeral pencil and the final dermo-pigmentation .
Effect five years less: with a hair removal that redraws a young eyebrow, parallel to the line of the eyes and the mouth, of horizontal shape to extend the look. Then his bow is drawn towards the temple: the ascending part must be two-thirds of the line; not before, otherwise it accentuates the ptosis. Finally, we stretch the tail of the eyebrow.
There are two trends that stand out: either they are lightly spliced (the exact word) for a cleaner finish, or they are left to live.
This is the option advocated by Angélik: "It's very pretty a hair that evolves in a feather movement, thick root and end to the tip.If you cut it, it becomes like a cylinder, all dru."
Future trends
Like in make-up, they change all the time. Except that with poorly evaluated hair removal, we take the risk of distorting his line for a while ...
"Good taste is the best trends", asserts Angélik. Here we are warned.
That said, little risk with the option of the season that remains a safe bet: this summer, we like brows rather thick (without going to the big tiles of Kim K.) and less bushy than last year.
Elsa Durrens advocates a first third quite worked, well brushed, and a tail a little more refined, more nervous.
