Beef, crushed blueberry ... A few years ago, the phenomenon "Twilight" caused collateral damage (mainly, the vampiromania appeared on the screens since 2008) in the middle of the cosmetics. It has led to the reinforcement of a dramatic devilish tendency, especially adapted to pale complexions and autumn rains: the dark mouth.

© Emporio-Armani Fashion Show Spring Summer 2016 Andrea Adriani / Imaxtree

It carries with it typically European assets: besides marvelously agreeing to your glass of crozes-hermitage, the dark lip would also have the power to summon the tradition of black romanticism, from Goethe's poems to those of Gérard de Nerval , masters of melancholy and Sundays on a wood fire. Just that ? "The imagination that is attached to it, it is also that of Louise Brooks, Sarah Bernhardt, of the time of the silent cinema with these emaciated black lips, with very sharp heart", advances Claire Blavet.

© Vera Wang Parade Fall Winter 2013/2014 Armando Grillo / Imaxtree

In a few decades, this expressionist aesthetic has given way to other interpretations. It is, for example, with a dark lipstick that Carine Roitfeld celebrates the advent of porn chic with Tom Ford and Mario Testino in the 2000s. The color comes out of the counter-cultural ghetto in which she was recluse since the 80s and regains nobility.

© Shiatzy Chen Parade spring summer 2016 Matteo Volta / Imaxtree

And today ? "It singles but is not at all transgressive, we speak of dark red or black, insists the historian Michel Pastoureau. Everywhere, the symbolism of black has faded. In his book "Black, story of a color" (Ed. Du Seuil, 2008), he recalled that the chic symbolized in the past by the black tuxedo or tailor had almost disappeared so much that color had become ubiquitous in everyday clothing: "The luxury of black only finds expression in caviar, the packaging of some expensive products ... And, indeed, on the nails and the lips today. It remains to be seen how to tame it. "The black red requires a pale and velvety complexion, soft eyes and lips neither too fine nor too fleshy," warns Claire Blavet. Valuable advice if you want to talk more about Kristen Stewart from "Twilight" than Johnny Depp from "Edward with Silver Hands".