Doping tired skins with mesolift

The anti-aging benefit: a tightening effect and good looks , a better moisturized skin.

Who is it for ? Urgently stressed in lushness and all women with mature skin, dry or damaged by the sun or tobacco .

How it works ? A cocktail of revitalizing active agents is injected directly into the dermis using one or more very fine needles. Depending on the needs of your skin, the specialist chooses a mixture of active ingredients - vitamins, minerals, trace elements, amino acids, microcirculation boosters, hyaluronic acid - which will act as a natural "fertilizer" on all factors of good health of the skin: brightness, hydration, fibroblast growth. The targeted areas? The wrinkles, of course, but also the cheeks, the neck, the neckline and even the back of the hands.

The flat: this method is, a priori, almost painless because the needles are very fine. But the sensation of pain varies greatly from one subject to another ... In the days that follow, one can see appear small bruises easy to camouflage.

How much does it cost ? Between 100 € and 150 € according to the nutritional cocktail used. Three to four sessions spaced a month apart are usually offered as an attack treatment. Then, one session is held per quarter.

The testimony of Mary, 32, teacher of English

Stress of the job, family worries ... I post a mine of papier-mâché for months. My dermato advises me a "nappage" on all the face with the cocktail NCTF of the Laboratories Filorga. I fear a little, but quickly reassured: it goes fast and it hardly tingles. Immediately afterwards, my complexion is pinker, cooler.

In the days that follow, my skin is pungent, tonic, as if I were doing an institute care each morning. My friends ask me if I went on holiday ... Of course! "

Get extra brightness with pulsed light

The anti-aging benefit: less redness, a nickel skin texture and a more toned appearance.

Who is it for ? The cozy ones and all those who want to discover aesthetic medicine via a gentle method .

How it works ? Pulsed light - also called flash lamp or photomodulation - uses a "cold light" that does not contain any UV. As it passes through the epidermis, it creates heat in the dermis that acts on different targets depending on the wavelength chosen: capillary microvessels (less couperose), sebaceous glands (less acne), pigments (less stains) and fibroblasts (renewal of firmness and elasticity).

The downside: it's a fairly recent technique so expensive. The brilliance effect can be seen from the third session. But it is the price of a smooth action (it hardly tingles) and unsuspected ...

How much does it cost ? 150 € approx. In starter, three sessions at one month interval, then one or two recall sessions each year.

The testimony of Amandine, 36, commercial

I let myself be tempted because I could no longer bear the acne scars on my cheeks. The dermato begins by spreading a layer of gel similar to that used for ultrasounds, pouark! Then he protects my eyes with glasses and "flashed" my face in small areas for a half an hour. The small ventilation is welcome because it gives warm anyway! Immediately, I do not really notice any effect. But at the third session, my skin is healthier, less marked. I also feel it brighter and more toned. "

Fill wrinkles and remodel face with injections

The anti-aging benefit: a magic wand strike on the wrinkles and a more "full" face, like reinflated from the inside.

Who is it for ? Those who live badly their wrinkles and regret the cheeks of their 20 years.

How it works ? The doctor injects into the dermis products gradually eliminated by the body, the most used being the hyaluronic acid . This sugar naturally present in our tissues can retain up to a thousand times its weight in water and brings volume and density to the dermis. There are two types of injections. On the one hand, the filling, which aims to "fill" the cutaneous depressions formed over time, such as the nasolabial furrow and the wrinkles of the upper lip, called wrinkles of the smoker. On the other hand, remodeling injections that increase the volume of a region of the face (cheekbones, lips, cheeks) in order to restore a more youthful, dense appearance.

The downside: it is better to choose a practitioner with the dexterity recognized to limit the pain. There is now a product, Juvéderm Ultra, which contains lidocaine, a light anesthetic. Redness and swelling may persist for a few hours or even days, especially on fine and sensitive skin.

How much does it cost ? Between € 200 and € 500 depending on the size of the area being treated. A complementary session, called retouching, is sometimes necessary at the end of fifteen days. Maintenance is done every eight to ten months, depending on the rate of disposal of the product.

The testimony of Frédérique, 54, documentalist

I may be a petechard of the needles, hard to bear my cheeks more and more hollowed out. I opt for the Voluma, a cocktail remodeling US lab Allergan. Stuffed with anti-inflammatory arnica granules, I lie down, not proud. Every time the doctor stings, I feel the product spreading in my cheeks ... Bizarre! The next day, my cheeks are smooth with just enough curves. Around me, it gives you "you're in shape right now, you're less tense". Bingo, that's exactly what I wanted! "

To find out more about all these methods, visit the website of the French Association of Medical Estheticians : www.afme.org

Block glycation

This phenomenon involved in skin aging has recently been highlighted by cosmetology researchers. The sugars that we consume on a daily basis (glucose, fructose ...) are used to produce energy, but a small part of it attaches to our collagen fibers , which represent 70% of the dermal proteins . They stiffen and, over time, it affects the quality of the skin which becomes less elastic, less firm.

How can we stop this process? Chanel Laboratories has identified a gifted enzyme that "cleans" collagen fibers and found a way to activate its production. A new anti-aging approach to be discovered in the Ultra Correction Line Repair range .

Breaking down cellular decline

Thanks to the tools of modern biology, large cosmetic groups can now "decode" what happens beyond the epidermis. Thus, our skin is made up of millions of cells which are so many small plants whose performance decreases over the years. In a word, they fatigue. If beauty brands all dream one day of being able to reverse or even reverse this programmed genetic aging, they are able, for the moment, only to spot these "worn out" cells and to offer them support so that they remain at the top Longer. And it's already not that bad!

At Lancôme, an ideal "barcode" of healthy skin was established . Some proteins are included, but their synthesis decreases with time. After ten years of research and seven patents, the latest home care - baptized Génifique - promises to stimulate the production of these so-called youth proteins.

At Caudalie and Estée Lauder - with Timezone cream - the same fight, following the discovery at the turn of the year 2000 of a family of seven proteins , sirtuins . They act as a shield around the core of the cell and extend its lifespan. The two brands then developed care for Resveratrol, a powerful antioxidant (extracted from vine shoots in Caudalie's Vinexpert range) that literally explodes the expression of these proteins and would eventually turn our skin cells to full speed, longer.

At Dior, in the Capture R60 / 80 XP range, we have focused on the famous "stem cells" , a very fashionable word to talk about the mother vessels at the base of the epidermis and which manufacture keratinocytes in turn arm ... The catch? These stem cells are limited in number and become lazy over time. The great idea of ​​the laboratories is therefore to protect them by improving the quality of their environment thanks to an asset cocktail that will pamper the extracellular environment.

Limiting oxidation

The body needs oxygen to live. But once used, it degrades and produces waste: the famous free radicals . They attack different cellular components (proteins, lipids, DNA) and do not spare our skin. In short, our cells oxidize , they "rust". And our defense system is often overwhelmed. Especially when other oxidizing agents come to weigh the bill: tobacco, pollution, UV radiation, bad diet ...

The objective of the labs: try to minimize this oxidative stress. How?

? By protecting the skin from UV , great providers of free radicals. It is now commonplace. More and more day creams contain sunscreens suited to the urban lifestyle.

? By bringing a max of antioxidants that will help our defense system to trap free radicals. Vitamins A, C, E , trace elements (silicon, zinc), plant extracts (carotenoids, polyphenols, green tea) are now widely used in anti-aging creams. Their effectiveness is reinforced by the progress of "vectorization". Translation: the active ingredient is transported where it is necessary, when it is necessary, well sheltered in a vector (liposome, micro-sphere, nano-capsules ...) which avoids to disperse or to alter before to have achieved its goal.

? By "deoxidizing" the proteins of the dermis . It is the new credo of the Dior research that puts forward, via the second generation Capture Totale, a new active, the aminolumine, which makes it possible to remove the "rust" which fixes on the proteins and blackens them. At the key, a skin that better reflects the light, so that gains in brightness.

Thanks to Jean-Claude Le Joliff , consultant in cosmetology, and to Professor Joseph Vercauteren, director of the pharmacognosy laboratory of the Faculty of Pharmacy of Montpellier.