Manufacturers of cosmetics are required to strict regulations regarding composition, first, but also regarding labeling.
A label must state: the function of the product and its precautions for use, its weight or volume, its storage date after opening (indicated by an open pot accompanied by a number, "12M" for 12 months, for example) .
Ingredients should be listed in descending order of volume in the finished product. Thus, the term "Aqua" is very often found first, because the majority of the creams are composed of water.
The active ingredients in cosmetics, which are often touted in launch campaigns, are only present in a very small percentage, because they are effective in small quantities.
The names of chemical substances are written in English, when natural products (such as water, for example) are mentioned in Latin. The INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetics Ingredients) lists the ingredients of cosmetic products and makes it possible to find their functions and possible contraindications.
What substances should be monitored?
The list of potentially toxic, non-ecological or carcinogenic substances is long. But beware, not all are as dangerous as you think and it is necessary to disentangle the truth from the false.
- Parabens
Parabens are chemical preservatives used in cosmetics since the 1920s. They are routinely challenged, without actually demonstrating their harmfulness. For many scientists, they would be responsible for cancer and highly allergenic.
To recognize them on labels, one looks at the side of the words in -zoate like the parahydroxybenzoate or the words which include "paraben", like butylparaben, propylparaben, sodium butylparaben, sodium propylparaben, potassium butylparabe and potassium propylparaben.
- Silicones
Silicones are never mentioned on labels. To recognize them, we track the words in -cone, -one, or -exane.
Cyclopentasiloxane, cyclotetrasiloxane and cyclomethicone are considered endocrine disruptors.
Silicones also tend to clog pores and only repair the hair on the surface.
They are not biodegradable and cause environmental damage.
- The PEG or PPG
These substances are the famous polymers. They are derivatives of petrochemicals and made from ethylene oxide.
Their health risks are not known, but they were used to create combat gases in the first place.
To find them, we look for polyethylene glycol or propylene.
- Paraffins and mineral oils
Derivatives of petrochemicals, paraffins are suspected of clogging the pores of the skin and being comedogenic (causing pimples).
The acne skins must therefore leak these ingredients. Mineral oils, on the other hand, hydrate and stabilize the formula.
In organic cosmetics, they are replaced by vegetable oils.
- The SLS
These emulsifiers are present in shampoos and shower gels. They are found under the name of sodium lauryl sulfate or ALS.
They could possibly cause allergies and irritations.
- Phthalates
Phthalates are among the most discussed. They are found in perfumes, nail polishes and some styling products. They are accused of promoting male infertility and disrupting hormonal development in women.
In Europe, only one is allowed: diethyl phthalate. The labels which mention "phthalate-free" are therefore preferred.
- Aluminum salts and aluminum chlorates
Present in aerosol deodorants, aluminum salts would be responsible for breast cancers and Alzheimer's cases.
- Formaldehyde
Formaldehyde is particularly present in nail polishes because it has hardening properties.
It is a by-product of formalin that causes irritation and may cause cancer. Cosmetics companies are trying to develop formulas without formaldehyde.
Are organic cosmetics safer?
To ensure the natural origin of an organic stamped product, it is often necessary to venture to read the label.
The names in Latin are related to plants and natural products, so it is a good track.
And certified organic labels? Attention, some labels require only 10% of organic ingredients to issue or not their label and most are paying. They therefore do not guarantee a biological origin in a significant percentage. In addition, it is also sometimes necessary to be wary of certain natural ingredients. It is not because they are natural that they are safe for us.
Certain essential oils, in particular, can be poorly tolerated and cause allergies.
