She shoots her models a goldfish bag by hand, multicolored plasters across the face or plaid sweater, back, buttocks to the air. Coco Capitán, a new darling of 25-year-old fashion, has the taste of incongruous poses, ironic staging - a small car on the head, an accessory trash - and "perfectly imperfect" images .

coco capitan

For two years, his name has been circulating with an exponential occurrence. Published in prestigious magazines ( Dazed, New York Times Magazine, M Le Monde ), she has been seen collaborating with APC, Paco Rabanne, Miu Miu or Mulberry. This native of Seville, a graduate of the Royal College of Art in London for a year only, has the same agent as David La Chapelle.

coco capitan

Spotted three years ago by Alessandro Michele , she photographed New York for Gucci's Instagram at the 2016 Cruise . For the fall-winter 2017-2018, Michele is seeking another of her talents: the caustic typographic aphorism. Messages traced from the childish hand of the artist come bar a punk irreverence t-shirts and sweatshirts emblazoned with the Italian logo. "Common sense is not common" , says one, "What are we going to do with all this future? (What are we going to do with this future?), Says another. In June, for the Gucci Art Wall project, these words spread, gigantic, on the walls of New York and Milan. "This main sentence - What are we going to do with all this future? - seems to me very relevant at this moment when no one knows what will happen, especially with these major changes of political power, "Capitán told the New York Times, without citing Trump directly.

coco capitan

The aphorisms with which his Instagram abounds also signify the requirement of a playful melancholy: "How to stop existing without dying" . "As soon as I'm in a stressful or paradoxical situation, these thoughts naturally come to mind," she says on gucci.com. An analytical look that is accompanied by a critical point of view on the consumer society.

coco capitan

In 2014, a series of self-portraits and still lifes entitled The System of Objects refers to Baudrillard's System of Objects (1968); she retains this sentence: "Objects are categories of objects that very tyrannically induce categories of people. "The press is often associated with other photographers of his generation - Petra Collins Harley Weir - in the wake of the" female gaze "or the advent of a feminine look from breaking the monopoly of the" male gaze "Male gaze objectifying women's bodies. "When we talk about female gauze, we continue to react to the past, when there was only male gauze," she objected to Business of Fashion. She prefers to think the future, for a look finally released from the genre.

Article published in MC n ° 784, dated December 2017.