After the reign of the clay, it is the turn of the coal to make a place of choice in our bathrooms.

Already known and recognized for its multiple virtues on digestion, it reappears little by little in the field of beauty, ready to demonstrate its effectiveness on the detoxification and purification of the skin.

The history of coal in "cosmetto"

"The use of charcoal in cosmetics is very old and there is evidence of its use going back to antiquity: for medicinal reasons by Hippocrates around 400 BC or for the purification of water by the Egyptians around 1550 BC. For the care of the skin, the first archives date from Doctor Giraudeau of Saint-Gervais in the 19th century, "explains Jean-Claude Le Joliff, founder of the Cosmétothèque.

Coal in the beauty department is therefore not new. After a while, it comes back strong with the boom of cosmetics made in Korea and Japan.

How is coal used?

Coal can be used in two forms:

• Carbon Black has been used as a base pigment for centuries in black make-up products such as eye pencils, eye-liners or mascaras.

• Activated vegetable charcoal is now widely used in a multitude of treatments such as masks, cleansers, deodorants and even toothpaste.

Vegetable charcoal, a "vacuum cleaner" with impurities

The active vegetable charcoal, obtained by heating wood at very high temperature by depriving it of oxygen, has a porous and very aerated structure.

It has an extremely powerful absorption capacity which makes it possible to capture and eliminate any impurities such as sebum, dead skin or blackheads.

As a result, the skin is detoxified, it regains its radiance, and the pores are deeply scalded. The elimination of bacteria and dirt thus limits the appearance of pimples.

Is charcoal suitable for all skin types?

This active ingredient is mainly for mixed to oily skin and skin prone to imperfections, but it can also be used on other skin types because it has the distinction of preserving its hydrolipidic film.

On the other hand, attention is paid to the galenic form used, which can cause problems. For example, patches and masks are avoided on dry and sensitive skins, otherwise the fragility may be further weakened.

Finally, coal is also ideal for those who are exposed to pollution or for smokers, whose skin is often "fouled" by cigarette smoke.

* Thanks to Jean-Claude Le Joliff, President and founder of the Cosmétothèque (www.biusante.parisdescartes.fr/cosmetotheque/).