After four intense days, the Who's Next / Première Classe ready-to-wear show closed its doors against the backdrop of Fashion Week's animated sewing. At the end of this new edition rich in new features, four axes of trends fall-winter 2017-2018 are drawn through the collections presented by the exhibitors. Explanations.
Soul funk
Exit the low profile, the fun and festive evening dress exported in society. From the dancing dance to the dandy jouissif, the sparkling materials are declined on a palette of hot and glamorous hues but also of graphic prints inherited from the seventies. Made from precious materials, jewelery and accessories resonate like an ode to the American bling-bling in the golden age of Motown, ending silhouettes imprinted with a musical vibe gone.
Blurred lines
More than ever before, borders are becoming blurred in the coming winter. First of all, the men's dressing room inviting themselves more than ever in the feminine, at the turn of long men's overcoats , dresses shirts or felt hats credulating our silhouettes with an androgynous guarantee to the " eroticism. The boundaries between day and night are also obscure, the velvet slip dress continues to be worn on delicate collars rolled or under heavy rugged mesh, while accomodating , from time to time, an elegant pajamas d man, all worn by a vintage wave assumed.
East Block
Inspired by banality to design stylish draws, this is all the party of the new generation of designers in vogue, from Finnish Aalto to Russian Gosha Rubchinskiy . Jean snow, shawl collar, skirt pants, bomber hooligan: the fundamentals of bad taste are rehabilitated in an underground pop mixing synthetic materials, affirmed primary hues and constructivist references. The logotypes are less ludic than claims, covering volumes and almost clanic color codes, offering a combative dimension to future winter silhouettes.
Monochrome (s)
Because fashion has never ceased to be inspired by society, a part of future trends inevitably reflects the gloomy atmosphere of these uncertain times. Drawing inspiration from Nippon essentialism, the designers project city vestals, next to satin and woolen fabrics, in declinations of quasi-monastic blacks and asymmetrical drapes . Modest, the shoulders just unveiled are bartered against the traditional cleavage. Just as discreet, the jewelry is reduced to metallic rings, gold or silver, structuring to the handles handles. The aesthetic is essentialist, the look clean and the atmosphere resolutely austere.
