No question of being an accomplice of non-assistance to skin in danger! Action is taken because pollution is everywhere: in the atmosphere - nitrogen oxide from exhaust gases, fine particles in suspension (diesel engines, industrial residues), ozone ... - as well as inside - products maintenance, ambience fragrances ... Surrounded on all sides, the skin drinks all pollutants and women suffer the consequences. In fact, 90% of the skin aging marks should be polluted and sun. It was believed to be safe, leaving the preserve of pollution to the greyish veils of Asian megalopolises.

The reality is quite different. "In Europe, our cities are not cleaner or less polluted than in Asia, pollution is just different, it is not as visible as in China, where it is linked to coal and steel. exposed to fine particles, probably even more dangerous than large particles, "warned dermatologist and environmental medicine specialist Jean Krutmann at the last World Congress of Dermatology.

Even the World Health Organization (WHO) warns: "The risks associated with air pollution are now the main environmental health hazard in the world." And in fact, for the skin, constantly in front line, the damage is numerous: "The lipids and cutaneous proteins oxidize. We also observe a decrease in its content of vitamins E and C, main natural antioxidant defenses.

Moreover, fine particles make the aryl hydrocarbon receptors (AhR, aryl hydrocarbon receptors, ndlr) hyperactive active, naturally present in the cells of the skin and involved in cell renewal, inflammatory processes and melanogenesis, origin of the pigmentation of the skin. Hence the premature appearance of pigmentary spots and wrinkles, increased inflammatory reactions, collagen degradation and loss of elasticity, hypersensitivity and reactivity of the skin ", decrypts Dominique Moyal, doctor of sciences and responsible for the La Roche-Posay international clinical studies, and as if this were not enough, these polluting microparticles exacerbate the production of sebum and its oxidation, resulting in enlarged pores, a surge of comedones and pimples, acne at any age.

Fortunately, the skin has a natural armor, its microbiome, ecosystem of beneficial bacteria - one million per cm 2 of skin - that colonize it continuously and protect it from infections and dermatoses. Is it worth it against pollution? Can cosmetology use it in this way? Possible, but it is too early to say, researchers have only studied it since 2007. For tomorrow, "we can also imagine molecules that will directly oppose various mechanisms of pollutants, such as antagonists to AhR receptors, or others that will polarize the antiradical power. "But when?" asks Michèle Sayag, allergist and director of the Bioderma medical strategy.

Until the new active skin "breathable" and second skin Pollustop of the group Solabia, 100% without preservative and therefore without phenoxyethanol, arrives in our pots of creams, here is the best antipollution routine for the skin.

Gentle cleansing to protect my skin from pollution

One resists the temptation to strip every millimeter of its skin. It would be worse! We do not soap with anything, we avoid the peels too strong. Morning and evening, we opt for ultra-gentle formulas to avoid micro-inflammations and irritations which, even invisible, accelerate aging. We trust our skin which has its own depolluting system (the proteasome side detoxification, the endonucleases, DNA repairers).

Namely: "Its peak of regeneration being at 1 am, it must be able to devote itself to it rather than repair the aftereffects of aggressive cleaning," said Corinne Dechelette, pharmacist cosmetologist at R & D Pierre Fabre. The right formula must capture all residues (pollutants, makeup, sebum, dust) while respecting the skin barrier. Without modifying the hydrolipidic film as well as the lipids and the water of the stratum corneum which ensure the cell cohesion not to pull. Choice of a cleansing formula (milk, gel, foam, micellar water) equipped with moisturizing active ingredients with a minimum of chemical substances (dye, paraben, preservative ...).

• If your skin is weakened

Micellar water loves and embarks dirt (to limit the number of passages of cotton). Its structure close to the phospholipids of the cutaneous cell membranes reconstitutes the hydrolipidic film.

• If your skin is normal

A milk and a tonic lotion will revive the microcirculation and facilitate a self-depollution. The right formula must capture the residues (particles, sebum ...) while respecting the skin barrier and the cell cohesion so as not to tug.

• If you prefer a cleaning with water

Choose a product that shorts limestone. For a more effective cleaning and a nickel skin feel, opt for electric brushes (Philips, Clinique and Clarisonic). They do not attack if you do not press, do not cause a rebound of sebum and tighten the pores. Clarisonic's sonic system has demonstrated an antipollution clean-up thirty times more than the manual gesture. Purists can finish with a mist of thermal water, allowing three minutes before applying their protective cream so that the trace elements and minerals activate the enzymatic processes that will recharge the skin.

Synergistic protection for skin exposed to pollution

A soothing moisturizing but also anti-adhesion day care is applied which deposits a film to catch the polluting particles, prevent them from penetrating and irritating the skin.

• If your skin is normal

A nourishing texture is applied according to the degree of dryness, equipped with antioxidants to stop the generation of free radicals triggered by the pollutants. With the addition of a UV filter (minimum SPF15) to prevent the oxidative synergy of the UVA, UVB and pollution trio.

• If your skin is oily and prone to imperfections

Use an anti-adhesion and antisbum treatment that prevents oxidation.

• If you are prone to pigment spots

Breastplate with a specific cream to calm the melanocytes, cells responsible for pigmentation of the skin.

A nocturnal regeneration of the skin

During sleep, the skin secretes more than two hundred molecules to repair the day's odor stress in the city. Hence the importance, from 30 years, of a boost with a night formula concentrated in antioxidant, detoxifying and regenerating substances.