Interview with Antoine Maisondieu, N ez chez Givaudan

Désirée de Lamarzelle: What do you think are the perfume trends for Christmas?
Antoine Maisondieu : An increasingly qualitative fragrance, and pulled up by niche perfumes. This pushes brands to move more and more towards qualitative. If not to answer concretely, I would say that the trends are sweet and fruity. With perhaps a little floral.



What does not work at all?
Which is quite dark. When the olfactory writing is too dark, woody, or even very spicy. Today is quite complicated, but maybe it will come back.



And on the contrary what works well?
Everything is floral. With orange blossom, or what is a little oriental or slightly chypre with a little fruit like Armani Si. And then the sweet ones, like La Vie Est Belle.



What is a perfect perfume for you?
It is a perfume that has wake, holds, has a signature, but not too aggressive despite everything.

How did you work on one of Van Cleef & Arpels' latest "Rose Velours" creations?
I worked natural materials. The rose, the essence rose and the absolute rose. The essence rose is very expensive, and having a lot of brilliance, it gains much on the departure of the perfume but in a non-aggressive way. There is also vanilla which brings depth, a slightly animal side, quite sexy. And at the head is Italian bergamot and violets. Then in the heart, from the absolute rose, honey and iris. Finally, in the bottom, benzoin, cedar and ambroxan, which brings a warmer, more sensual side. It's all a job. And it needed a finished product quite textured, hence the "velvet".