XXL spectrum filters, extreme remanence, coaching of melanogenesis without side effects, galenic with stretching effect, texture with double or triple layering ... will undoubtedly be operational anti-polar in less than ten years. State of the art with researchers who take the opportunity to denounce misconceptions and false truths whose consequences can be very serious.
The dream of absolute sun protection
Jean-Noël Thorel, creator of Esthederm, Bioderma and Etat Pur, has been working for years on the ideal sun protection. Dream of a child long deprived of exposure because of red hair and white skin ... " I work in several directions," he explains. I would like to create an internal SPF to skin for self-protection. It would be wider than a simple UVB filter because it would also act as anti-inflammatory. In addition, we should protect ourselves from aging by preserving the cells' DNA, that is to say, by creating an anti-UVA protection. " We are currently thinking about a cream or a serum to be displayed morning and evening, which would create the equivalent of a SPF15 anti-UVA (which amounts to a 50 anti-UVB), adds Isabelle Benoit, director Esthederm innovation. To develop this internal protection, we were inspired by the defense mechanism of organisms living in extreme conditions. They develop highly sophisticated UVA techniques that prevent them from aging too quickly. In parallel, Jean-Noël Thorel optimizes the rise of melanin. " To help tan safely, we are looking to induce its synthesis, as we started to do with the Adaptasun range. For fragile skin that burns and then tans, we will try to tan first (equivalent to a SPF6) so that they burn less. »Date of placing on the market? In five to twenty years, think the specialists! But what progress for skin intolerant to the sun!
An epidermal barrier like a bulletproof vest
" The best protection against the dangers of the sun is a perfectly functional epidermis ," says Dr. Philippe Allouche, research and creation director at Biologique Recherche. It should be known that, if it is in good health, it contains enzymes (glutathione, SOD, catalase) which are natural antioxidants .
It has just been found that melatonin secreted by fibroblasts plays a dual role. In addition to anti-oxidation, it participates in cell differentiation essential for a good barrier effect. Another avenue of research for Dr. Allouche: gene therapy, to stimulate the genes that ensure our own defenses , " as we do in our anti-stain serum ," he says. It is therefore necessary to ban retinol, retinoic acid, etc. when you put yourself in the sun because they damage the skin barrier. Also avoid too much "cleaning" the skin because the germs that colonize it, its sebum, its natural factors of hydration are protective and participate in its good balance. It is also important to reduce the number of anti-RL substances, which "assist" the cells too much and prevent them from learning to protect themselves.
Coach melanogenesis with skill
For Alain Géloën, researcher at the CNRS, the Grail would consist in swallowing a pill and being protected from the sun! " It is unlikely that we can get there quickly (before twenty years), " he said nonetheless. To put it simply, the production of melanin involves many mechanisms that we do not yet know how to control well. For the researcher, the ideal would be to apply a self-tanner, accompanied by a large SPF, for thirty days (duration of renewal of the stratum corneum), before going to the sun. At this point, the melanin would be operational, the protected person. This miracle product does not exist yet. A good point nevertheless for glycyrrhetinic acid, which has the enormous advantage of preparing the skin by initiating the synthesis of melanin, when it is introduced into the sun (Nivea). But it is still insufficient for a very high protection.
Formulas to improve urgently
Photostable filters (that is to say, not degraded by UV), we know how. Fortunately! On the other hand, it is imperative that they all become thermostable, insists Lionel de Benetti, consultant in cosmetology. " Abandoned on the back of the car, they can reach temperatures of over 50 ° C. What about their effectiveness? Textures are also to be improved. " The product should not thin too quickly on the skin because its surface looks like a mountain. A too fluid solar accumulates in the hollows, leaving the bumps unprotected, "he explains. It is therefore important to develop formulas that provide uniform coverage.
Another imperative to generalize: " Play on the penetration or not of certain molecules. For example, the filters are liposoluble, that is to say soluble in the oily phases. It is necessary, by formulation tricks, to prevent them from penetrating the epidermis, contrary to cellular protectors, who must penetrate to do their job well, "concludes Lionel de Benetti. A real challenge and a few years of research ...
The perpetual hunt for the best filters
For Marc Toulemonde, international director of SkinCeuticals, we must first work on the scope of protection. " UVA / UVB filters are not enough anymore. Last year we tackled anti-infrared protection. There are three types (A, B and C). The last two give the heat. A causes damage. It is against them that we must protect ourselves. Researchers have identified them as one of the causes of early skin aging. The sunscreens do not completely protect the skin from IR, the application of an antioxidant can neutralize some of the oxidative stress they cause.
The research "boards" also on filter concentrations lighter but also effective. Let's leave aside the controversy over titanium dioxide and its nanoparticles. " On this side of the Atlantic, it is considered one of the most reliable filters, and our Mineral Radiance SPF50, oil and water texture called" chaka-chaka ", is our best selling sun care product. United States, "explains Marc Toulemonde. There remains the neutralization of oxidative stress created by UV and IR in the skin. " Studies have been conducted with people on diets rich in antioxidants or supplements. Their ability to neutralize free radicals has doubled. But our antioxidant serum CE Ferulic (one of the most effective RL molecules) with 15% pure vitamin C, multiplies by eight the natural defenses of the skin. The ideal would be a double protection: an antioxidant serum to neutralize skin damage from the inside and a cream to absorb or reflect solar energy on the surface. "
Prejudice to denounce
Titanium dioxide is one of the best mineral filters, experts say. But it is criticized for being micronized (to avoid the white effect) in nanoparticles. " A nanoparticle is one billionth of a meter," says Alain Géloën, a CNRS researcher. There is no risk of penetration if the epidermis is intact. The only danger would be to inhale these nanoparticles (impossible with sunscreen). " Titanium dioxide is very interesting because while staying on the surface of the skin and being invisible, it reflects the UV resumes Marc Toulemonde, at SkinCeuticals. , No need to put a lot of cream to form an effective screen. " No danger if the dermis is intact, " adds Jean-Yves Desmottes, at Bioderma. So what are the risks? In case of abrasion, cut, burning reaching the dermis, one could fear a small local inflammation ...
