Protestant artist of a quasi-visceral discretion, Hedi Slimane was ovationné by the fashion public for having transposed the rock scene in stylistic and photographic work. Back on atypical course.
HEDI SLIMANE, ORIGIN
Son of a Tunisian boxer, converted into an accountant, and an Italian seamstress, Hedi Slimane was born on July 5, 1968, in the 19th arrondissement of Paris.
At the age of eleven, he took the reflex to capture pictures after receiving his first camera: " I started taking pictures before I even became interested in fashion, " he explained when he one of his rare interviews, before stating " I always took pictures, just like others write and keep a diary ".
If a few years later, the young man, then aged 16, is already starting to create his own clothes, he does not intend to pursue a career in fashion, preferring to turn to journalism.
When he reaches the age of majority, Hedi Slimane begins a law degree at the University Panthéon-Assas, which he will then abandon in favor of an artistic curriculum at the Art Institute of Michelet, then at the School of the Louvre.
In parallel with his studies, he maintains his photographic activities and specializes in black and white portraits, spontaneously organizing wild castings.
HEDI SLIMANE, THE FULGURING ASCENSION
After graduation, Hedi Slimane began his career by assisting the illustrious fashion consultant, Jean-Jacques Picart, from 1992 to 1995. A privileged position that will open the doors of the marketing department of Yves Saint Laurent .
Very quickly, it is noticed by Pierre Bergé , who entrusts to him, in 1996, the stylistic reindeer of the famous house, as manager of the Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche Homme collections.
In the year 2000, Slimane fulfills his duties after presenting his Fall-Winter 2000-2001 collection. Entitled " Black Tie ", this last parade further authenticates the prodigy creator's signature: fitted pants closer to the body, a declared inclination for androgyny and a preponderance of black.
HEDI SLIMANE THE ADVENT OF THE SKINNY
After his resignation, Hedi Slimane moved to Berlin, refused the position of creative director at Jil Sander and accepted that of artistic director of Dior Homme . There is a sensation.
Under the patronage of Dior, which gives him carte blanche, Hedi Slimane completely redefines the aesthetic codes of the brand while introducing the notion of " skinny " in the repertoire of men's fashion.
A silhouette literally slimmed down by the wearing of skimpy suits, ultra-slim trousers and a sure rock draw. The rise of the Slimane style will probably reach the peak of media glory in 2001, when Karl Lagerfeld, more slender than ever after a draconian regime, reveals to have lost weight for the sole purpose of being able to enter the creations of the young couturier.
In April 2002, Slimane became the first menswear designer to receive the CFDA Award for Designer International from the hands of icon David Bowie .
The same year, Editions 7L, the publishing branch of Kaiser himself , published a first book gathering part of his photographic work.
In 2007, the creator decided to leave Dior to better devote himself to his photography projects. In the viewfinder of his lens? The rock scene of which he is one of the biggest fans. Thus, it is the very imagery of what rock tells us that it applies to capturing.
The clichés of sweaty crowds of sweat, anonymous groupies or artists are added on his site, like a travel diary that instantly embeds us in his universe.
HEDI SLIMANE THE RETURN OF SAINT LAURENT
Appointed artistic director of Yves Saint Laurent in 2012, Hedi Slimane took the opportunity to decline this vision in the clothing.
From then on, the fashion house complies with the slightest requirements of the fashion designer star: name change in Saint Laurent Paris and expatriation of the creative studio in Los Angeles, where he lives since 2007.
To draw his collections, Hedi Slimane immerses himself in young culture, connecting it closely to the musical fields of rock, grunge or even punk. A repositioning of the most drastic style that has proven to be extremely successful commercially.
Thus, in 2014 alone, Saint Laurent's turnover would have increased by 23%, surpassing the entire luxury market, despite a reduced distribution network (142 stores) - if compares with other behemoths of fashion like Louis Vuitton.
In April 2016, Kering, owner of Saint Laurent, and Slimane announced in a joint statement that the designer will not renew his contract.
If no concrete reason has been given to justify this departure, the groupies of the designer can not help but find the explanation in a hypothetical comeback within a competing brand. The next maneuver Slimane is waiting.
