They point to my chin, my nose, my forehead. Although I carefully clean my face they come back inexorably. What are the causes of blackheads? How to eradicate them? Dermatologists explain us.

Two types of blackheads

In reality there are two kinds of black dots. Those that specialists call "open comedone" that appears with acne . It is caused by an accumulation of sebum in the sebaceous gland. The sebum no longer flows, and there is formation of a micro-cyst made of sebum and dead cells. The comedo becomes black by oxidation of the sebum.

Beside, there are black spots caused simply by large pores that trap pollution and are fouled by all the impurities around us. The doctors also note that we have a lot less of these blackheads after a stay in the fresh air of the mountain.

Blackheads without associated buttons: targeted cleaning

Non-negotiable I make a meticulous cleansing of my face once a day with a foaming product, a syndet or soap surgras for example to respect the PH of the skin I emulsify it and I mass of the fingertips before rinsing with, ideally mineral water or slightly astringent floral water .

Good choice too, micellar waters or gels special combination skin that cleans thoroughly but gently. If I find that my black spots are resistance I can at night do a mechanical scrub but with balls all sweet. Finally, if my skin supports it I apply once or twice a week fruit acids (AHA) in lotion , mask , or with peeling discs .

The extra thing: I can clean my face two to three times a week with an electric brush (Clarisonic, Nivea, Clinic, Philips).

Blackheads of acne: a specific treatment

These black spots there are the result of a retention plug that prevents sebum from flowing. The solution: to blow this plug.

I start with a careful grooming with cleansers "special oily or acne skin ". Then I eliminate daily dead cells that make the bed of microcysts with creams, lotions or foams based on fruit acids (AHA) or salicylic acid more or less concentrated depending on the sensitivity of my skin. Finally, if acne really resists the dermatologist will prescribe me more costly exfoliants based on retinoic acid.

Blackhead treatment at home

We all know it: we should not tamper with or squeeze our black dots, but it's so tempting! But we must not! Even between two Kleenex®, my hands are more or less clean, my actions poorly adapted and I risk at best not extract anything at all, at worst to leave a scar. I leave this to the beautician who will explain to me how to use a tire comedone. There are even today electrical devices that avoid false maneuvers (Onnexo). And before going on a hunt for blackheads, I prepare a facial steam bath with, if necessary, one to two drops of Tea Tree and Bourbon Geranium essential oil in a bowl of warm water to soften the skin and make it easier extraction.

Masks are also a good option: they purify, moisturize and tighten pores that will be less inclined to accommodate pollution. Particularly effective, black coal or clay that sucks impurities and tighten the grain of my skin thus reduce the size of my pores. They can be found in fabric mask or classic cream to leave for about fifteen minutes.

Treatments institute: I require softness

Some beauty salons are specialized in the care of oily and imperfections skin. It never offers aggressive scrubs, brutal extractions.

The cleaning of my skin is done with products respecting its PH and the target mask formula especially blackheads and open comedones. I like being able to book an appointment every five weeks to see that my black spots have almost disappeared after a few sessions.

At the dermatologist: deep care

Superficial peels with AHA (fruit acids) or BHA (salicylic acid) will clean my skin deeply and tighten the grains. Bye Bye the dilated pores! It takes 4 to 5 sessions spaced from 15 days to three weeks. They can be combined with micro incisions to eliminate microcysts.

In the plate: the enemy is not the one we believe

Of course I monitor my diet favoring fruits, vegetables, lean meat and oily fish. But I must not blame lipids (in reasonable quantities) for being responsible for my oily skin and for promoting my acne: sugar is the main provider of blackheads and comedones.

Thank you to Dr. Nadine Pomarède, Dermatologist at DermoMedicalCenter, and Dr. Philippe Deshayes, Dermatologist and Scientific Consultant Vichy.